The economic crisis

Local communities here are, like governments everywhere, viscously cash strapped. A few examples in the press recently:

The harsh winter almost bankrupted municipalities attempting to keep the streets clear. Not only the cost of overtime labor and fuel for the plows were problems, but simply getting salt to strew on the roads. However, a new problem has surfaced: what to do with all the gravel put down on the streets for traction (in lieu of the more commonly used sand in the States). Special uses for this material are being sought (i.e. so it can be sold!) - otherwise, the cities are stuck with it!

Here in our city, there have been several projects underway for a few years - a new library/cultural center, an expansion to the castle (which is now used as a museum), renovations to schools and gyms. However, admidst the closing of swimming pools and sports facilities, curtailment of festivals, etc, the city has confessed that it might not be able to outfit these new factilities when they are finished. So perhaps no new books for the library, exhibitions for the museum, equipment for the gyms....

North Sea Vacation

Germans are determined vacationers. Enter a German bookstore, and there may be more shelf devoted to travel guides than there will be to all other non-fiction combined. While warm, sunny, seaside space places like Mallorca and Italy feature prominently in the selection, you can't underestimate the German desire to get to sea, without traveling all that far.

Thus I found myself visiting the North Sea over the recent Easter vacation, with the kids, husband and mother-in-law in tow. We stayed in what is knows as a vacation village (Feriendorf), which was set aside by the local municipality for the purpose of building vacation homes (but which are not run as a resort).

Vacation Village
The village was built up like a little town, around a central playground, and contained a grocery, bike rentals, and best of all - an indoor playground to which we got free entry (by virtue of having payed the Spa Tax). Paths throughout were nicely paved - providing a palette for little girls who wanted to create life-sized princesses.

Wildlife
Being on the North Sea, we of course had to visit the Seal Aid Station, where they tried to rehabilitate injured or helpless seals for re-release into the wild. We watched them being fed, and even got to pet one - albeit one long since no longer wild (or even living for that matter).



The Dike
Like the more famous Dutch coast, the German coast is also heavily fortified against the sea with dikes. These are 7 or 8 meter high berms of grass-covered stone and earth, usually further protected from the waves and storms by stone covered paths on the sea side (Anke on the left). The beach (for bathing is allowed in some areas) appears at low tide as a very long, very flat expanse of fine sand, reached by descending stairs to the sand (see Anke escaping the quicksand below) . Being by far the highest spot in the area, you can see forever from the tops of them - Peter and Anke are here visible with a wind turbine farm in the background.












We were there over Good Friday, which is normally very strictly observed with almost all businesses and shops closing, but in spa locations (that's apparently an official designation), they are exempt to some extent from this rule. This is because, since most visitors to the area (who are the primary economic drivers!) come over holidays, the businesses must be open then in order to survive.

In fact, the region impressed me with the determination entire communities showed to draw in tourists. This was a positive thing. In the US, such vacation destinations spring up, it's rather a casual thing, with the free market (with maybe a little help from the gov't) determining what amenities show up. Here it seemed different - whether it was the subsidized bus system to whisk you around, or the multitude of cheap indoor attractions (it was March, after all), it just seemed like the entire affair had been organized to keep the tourists showing up year-round. So, for example, you could visit the indoor activity center in Norden, or rent beach chairs to protect you from the wicked wind (both visible behind the shivering Anke).

The Weather
Why is Anke shivering? Because it was COLD. And because I vastly underestimated the wind. March at the 53rd Latitude isn't balmy or especially sunny. Add to that the bracing wind that was almost constant - remember those wind turbines in the picture above - and you have conditions that make you wonder WHY these pictures show so many other tourists besides us.

The reason: Germans are tough, determined vacationers. No, really. They work hard, and so by God, they are going to have a good time even if it kills them.










The climate in these communities on the North Sea has a reputation as healthy (sea air)- there were numerous Spas and Saunas catering to people who just wanted to relax as well as to those there for a Kur (a sort of German health-vacation). So despite the weather, there was a healthy number of visitors; I can only imagine it in summer when even the casual vacationers show up. My mother-in-law contends that it gets quite hot there, but I can't imagine ever being warm there with that wind! And even in front of a beach, there is still the fortified walkway (see the kids balancing on the wave-breaking stones), just to keep the beach there!

But on the day you see in these pictures, it was relatively sunny, so despite the risk of chilblains Uschi (the mother-in-law) & I decided to take the children for ice cream. This is another thing about Germans you must understand: They are tough, determined ice cream eaters. Any time is good for ice cream, and as long as it's sunny, they will risk losing toes in order to enjoy their ice cream outside. I respect this, but Uschi and I still decided to sample a local specialty: Grog. That's the kind of Kur you need in that weather.

Slowing tickets

One aspect of life in Germany that's always fascinated me is their relationship with the automobile.

Americans have this image of Germans as being very conscientious rules-followers. This is definitely not true when it comes to driving, probably as it deals with autos, which are stand high next to beer and soccer in the German pantheon. Speed limits are routinely ignored, especially in areas the driver knows well (and is therefore well acquainted with the permanent speed cameras).

However, the transgressions usually involve SPEEDING.

It's been a tough winter here - for the lower Rhine, that is. One or two 4-inch snow falls, many nasty little dustings, during which you can't decide whether the broom or shovel is called for. They, and the unaccustomed frost-freeze cycle this winter, have left the roads around here full of Peugot-swallowing ruts.

So a local bus driver was very surprised when he was pulled over in his private car, for 'slowing'. Driving 25 kmh (15) in a 50 (30 mph) zone. Because of the pot holes.

After his complaints to the press, the police dropped the fine. But he's not letting it go... after all, the city wouldn't pay for damage to his car, but want to fine him actually helping conserve the roads...

I love this country.

The Swine Flu

Yes, Germany is under attack from the Swine Flu. But it's interesting to watch the reaction:

• Many people are upset because supposedly politicians and civil servants are getting the "better" vaccine - the one without "mercury and nanoparticles" as someone informed me today. Whatever they are getting, they're not handling the public relations very well.
• Possibly as a result of the above rumors, many people are deciding against the vaccine. One piece I saw in the paper cited a survey in which only 30% of Germans were hoping to get it.
• The Health Ministry has issued a directive requiring all those in close contact to a flu victim to stay home for 7 days (i.e. parents of a sick child).
  

Do you actually want to get the vaccine? It's not that easy.

• Lists of doctors administering the vaccine are in the paper. There is just one in our immediate area. When I called him regarding getting the kids done, the receptionist told me they don't do kids without an acknowledgement from the pediatrician that the child can receive it.
• Our pediatrician's receptionist has never heard of such a thing. The kids and I will head in there this afternoon to chat with him about that - possibly exposing us all to the flu as the waiting room is sure to be filled with fevered children.

Meanwhile, one school in the next city closed last week after most of a class fell ill during a field trip. Both the kindergarten and the school sent home letters yesterday saying that they'd had cases reported, but please, KEINE PANIK! The kindergarten had big signs around informing the parents that one of the kids had been sent home with it on Friday.

But panicking the Schwafheimers seem to be: when I took Anke to kindergarten this morning, she was the first child there. Usually she's 3rd or 4th. Only 1 further child came in while I was talking with a teacher for 10 minutes (helping inform me of the other, above beliefs). Meanwhile, I've been told, a lot of parents are excusing their children from the after-school program for the week, partly because the teachers there, who are still on their feet, have to combine all the kids into one or two groups.

Facemasks have yet to make an appearance.

And yes, we know at least one of the cases: a friend of Pete's, his little brother a close friend of Anke's, and yes, we've had close contact with the family in the past few days. But what can you do, other than risk exposure by going to the doctor's to get the shot? Oh, the irony.

Maybe I should start laying in supplies!

Back in the Saddle

It was pointed out to me that I've been somewhat remiss in keeping this blog going. To all 5 or so of my faithful readers, tut mir leid.

The biggest news lately has been celebrating S.'s birthday. He chose to celebrate his 40+ birthday at Ketteler Hof, the playground to end all playgrounds.

Now, let me explain something about Germans and playgrounds. Backyards here are fairly small by American standards (or perhaps it could be said that American backyards are big by the world's standards). So if you do have a backyard here, you can put a swing set or a trampoline in it, or you can leave the room open for the kids to run in very tight circles till they drop. But many haven't any - a much higher proportion of folks live in apartments. So playgrounds can be found in just about every neighborhood, often tricked out with zipwires, groundwater pumps, and various climbing equipment. Pretty fancy stuff.

But Ketteler Hof is something pretty special. Acre after acre of slides, pedal-powered go-carts, picknick sites, sandboxes, water slides, and climbing equipment to beat the band. Ok, you pay 10 Euros a head to get in, but compared to an amusement park, it's peanuts - and almost all the fun is kid powered.

I'm going to shut up now and let the pictures tell the story.

Masshole

I started a new semester of intermediate German at the community college (Volkshochschule). There are students from: Belarus, Ukraine, Russia, Kenya, Brazil, Turkey and Mongolia. We, of course, had a round of introductions. Names with far too many syllables or consonants were stumbled over. Almost everyone there, except me, can speak at least 2 other language in addition to German.

But the big tongue twister tonight? My home state of 'Massachusetts'.

I told them not to feel bad; I'd had decades to practice it.

We three kings (and a little princess)

I alluded, in the last post, to an event in which I'd be taking the kids around the neighborhood (not murdering them). This was the "Star Singing", in which local kids, under the aegis of the Catholic Church, ring each doorbell and offer a blessing for the new year. Peter, with friends Julian and Luis, covered our street this year - by my estimate, over 200 doorbells were pushed. They were accompanied on one day by honorary princess Anke. I'm especially proud that we visited almost all the apartment buildings - the little old ladies were so happy to see the kids, even though they often stumbled over lines (you can see Luis/Melchior below, posing with the cheat-sheet), and only once could be convinced to earn the title "Star Singers". When the blessing was complete, one of the kids would write on the house (in chalk; all the houses are stone here): 20 + C*M*B + 09. I used to think the initials were for Caspar, Melichior and Balthazhar, the 3 kings, but I have learned it means Christus Mansionem Benedictat, or Christ Bless this House. The numbers, the year. On the local houses you could see years' worth of childish scribblings next to the door.

People really got into it. Several people asked especially when we'd be stopping by so they could be there. Some people going on vacation left an envelope with the neighbors. The only (moderately) unfriendly people we encountered were some self-avowed Protestants who just wanted to through a little money in and have the kids go away. Many more said "We're Protestant but we always love this!".

We went out on two afternoons, Jan 3 and 4th, in bitter cold, and quit shortly before finishing up the entire street because it was threatening to snow (eventually paralyzing the lower Rhine with 5 inches of powder).

People were throwing in bills left and right. One little girl emptied her piggybank.

They collected almost 500 Euros. And about 10 pounds of treats, "to reward these sweet little boys". That was collected by the church and sent on to orphans in Romania (I'm not kidding about that!). The money when to African missions. The boys, despite the frozen noses and stingy-with-the-treats chaperone (me), all signed up for next year.

Bringing the kids around

Very funny faux pas today:

I called the neighbors regarding an upcoming event with the kids (more on it later), in which I will be accompanying the kids around the neighborhood. So I called the neighbor and wanted to say 'We'll talk later about when I will bring the kids around the neighborhood'.

Bring: bringen
around: um

Stefan knows where this is going.

So, the phrase 'Bring the children around the neighborhood' was translated by me as 'Die kinder um den Nachbarschaft umbringen'.

The only problem? 'umbringen' means 'to kill (a person)'. So I inadvertantly threatened the lives of the neighbors kids on their answering machine (i.e. to kill the kids in the vicinity of the neighborhood).

Luckily Guido, their dad, knows his sons and the exasperating effect they can have on adults well, and thought the whole thing was pretty funny.

*sigh*

Happy New Year

Germans go around this time of year wishing each other 'Einen Guten Rutsch', which means 'A good slide'; most folks around here think it is a nice folksy way to wish each other a nice slide into the new year. But I've read it comes from Yiddish - from the Rosh in Roshhashana, or the Jewish new year.

To prep for new years Germans spend inordinate amounts of money on fireworks. They may only be purchsed 3 days before New Year's, and then only shot off immediately after midnight. This means the skies over the town are full of backyard displays for at least an hour tonight. Also means that tomorrow everyone has to go into the yard and find the debris. The smell of sulfur can linger until morning, if the evening is still.

Another German New Year's tradition is a skit called 'Dinner for One'. Oddly, this show, from 1963, was recorded in Germany, but in its original English. All evening, you can see it, or one of the many recreations in high German, Swiss German, or any dialect.

Tonight newly 5 year old Anke and her older brother will join us in the street to look at the crazy neighbors' fireworks display. Anke still believes the fireworks are especially for her birthday. Peter lets her believe this.

Anke Engleke

Anke Engleke is my favorite figure on German television at the moment. When our little Anke was born, everyone in Germany said 'Oh yeah - Danke, Anke' - a catch phrase made popular by her which had gone through a 'yeah, that's the ticket' kind of phase. Therefore I wasn't really disposed to like her, even if she does do the German voice of Marge Simpson.

Since last week, though, I'm a fan. Like in the U.S., German TV is rife with reality shows - Super Nanny, Wife Swap, etc, all have German equivalents. A few I've only seen on German TV - Raus von den Schulden (Out of Debt) and Wohnen nach Wunsch (Living as Wished). But like in all these shows, some expert descends on some helpless family and reforms them.

Well, Ms. Engelke's show last week did a send up on these - all the experts paid visits, one after the other, to Josef and Maria von Nazareth - in their stable. First came the debt advisor, who didn't see them getting clear (and who wondered why the baby Jesus didn't look like his dad), then the Super Nanny, who told Josef he had anger control issues (and who wondered why the baby didn't look like his dad), then the kitschy redecorator, who renovated their stable and turned their donkey into a throw rug (and who wondered why the baby didn't look like his dad). At the end, Josef, crazed, slams the door on the next visitors - the 3 wise men bearing gifts.

You couldn't do that on network TV in the US.